Adios, lah!

Dear Reader- that is, if there are any of you left…

I begin this post as I have many others with a simple apology for my absence. Three years is a long time to keep you waiting.

To be honest, the first six months of life in Kuala Lumpur were so hard it was impossible to write and the last six months have been so busy there has been no time.

KL has been a mixed bag- the mundane punctuated by amazing moments of culture and diversity. Celebration, followed up by failures. Tears, laughs, frustration, traffic jams, curry puffs, travel, homesickness and elation.  

Since I last posted, life has been nothing short of a cluster fuck wrapped in a Haiku, and I mean that in the best possible way. 

Maybe, finally, I can say we have settled. I bump into people I know all over the city, the kids are loving school, we are well adjusted and happy. I can get places without Waze. Blinkers are for losers and double parking is the norm- not the exception. Taco Tuesday is no problemo and our Thanksgiving turkey this year was actually a turkey…see the difference?

I'm pretty sure this is NOT a turkey!

Three years later...look at that bird! Just like home!

There have been moments of fabulosa: watching Vee learn Mandarin, listening to Davis bargain with shop keepers, Kirk eating unrecognizable food from street vendors, me attempting a Yee Sang salad from scratch at home. We are all learning, growing, changing. But of course, that is not always easy.

So as fate would have it, we got the call that it is time to move again- westward at last to the bustling metropolis of London! Oi mate! Mind the gap!

Before I start on London, I would like to properly bid fairwell to KL. I hate that I didn't write more while in Malaysia, it has been such a life changing experience for us. Admittedly, my heart didn't sing for Southeast Asia the way it did for Australia, but with time this beautiful, chaotic country has more than seduced me. The kindness and generosity of the people, the pause brought on by a daily afternoon thunderstorm, the richness that comes from three distinct cultures living as one. The smells, the spices, the manic pace that was so agressive at first has become the norm and a welcome flavor profile to our life.

Malaysia has forced us to let go of some of our American expectation and ideals. In the begining it seemed like a one sided compromise; for instance a non-certified electritian rewiring the house one plug at a time because the main breaker would trip when it rained. Or buying meat and it going bad a day after purchase. Or people backing up in the toll booth lane with 25 cars behind them. Or absolutely nothing getting done the entire month of Chinese New Year! Yet, I can report we are better for all of these "inconveniences" and not just because we all have stonger microbiomes. Malaysia forced us to surrender, accept that things do not always go as planned and move on. Adapt, smile, repeat!

What a gift.

So with enhanced perspective we embark on a different adventure and bid a fond farewell to a place that has felt like a new world almost every day. We say goodbye to dear friends and look forward to calls and visits and letters from far away.

Thank you KL, much love and cheers!

Adios, lah!

Evangeline

Petunia Atkinson

Petunia Atkinson

2003-2019

May 31st, 2019- Kuala Lumpur, Petunia Atkinson passed away surrounded by family, she was sixteen years old.

Petunia was born in Arkansas in a quasi puppy farm supplying dubious AKC papers. Anyone that encountered her knew right away she was not Westminster material. Short ears, longish legs…she was by all accounts the “sporty” model of the iconic Bassett physique. Proportions aside, the nose came standard and she was an accomplished huntress. Purchased in 2003 from an ‘OBO’ advert at a local pet store she quickly settled in as first born to the Atkinson Family. 

Petunia grew up at the prestigious Texas Corinthian Yacht Club in lovely Kemah, Texas. It was there her love for the bay and all things outdoors was cultivated. She enjoyed walks down the pier, fishing at the halfway house and sailing on the Sunfish. While not an adept swimmer- she made life on the water her own. 

It was at TCYC where she met the love of her life Otis Norwood-Gunter. Otis and Petunia were inseparable. They split their time together hunting rabbits, enjoying sunset cruises on Gumbo and lazing the afternoons away on the flats.  

In 2005 Petunia became a big sister to Evangeline Grace, and a short while later to baby brother Davis Flournoy. Petunia took her duties as eldest sibling seriously; a loyal companion, trustworthy guard dog and an eager playmate. Petunia’s non deserneing palette served her well- she was always game for a forlorned chicken nugget or the stray goldfish. Hoovering up floor bits made her a welcomed guest in some of Houston's most prestigious homes.

At the ripe old age of 10 the tides changed for Petunia and she traveled with her family to Perth Australia. Her loyalty knew no bounds enduring long stints in quarantine and the humiliation of crate training to accompany them. But, sacrifice has its rewards- Petunia thrived the the cool temperatures, enjoying naps on the beach and delicious new delicacies made from kangaroo!

           Life as an expat suited Petunia and soon she was jetting off to Southeast Asia, landing in exotic Kuala Lumpur. KL was a mecca of smells and new things to eat! Sadly at this point Petunia had lost most of her eye sight so grand adventures were limited to the backyard. Amazingly she memorized the layout of the house and navigated things well- her nose letting her know exactly when dinner was served. 

            Petunia will be remembered for her large personality, her strong will and her distain for baths. She loved car rides, lasagna, sunny spots in the yard and expensive upholstery. We are all better for having her in our lives- she was a loyal and generous companion. One of a kind.

           We take comfort in knowing she is in a better place- hunting rabbits in the woods, cleaning up under the burger bar, lounging in the sun, home at the bay.

           In lieu of donations please take a moment to give your fury companion an extra belly rub or treat. It is a lonely life without these crazy animals we call ours- thanks is due. 

A Stranger No More

As we bid farewell to 2015, we have also said our good-byes to beloved Australia.

We are on the move once again, this time landing in Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia. But before I expound on the move and all the wonderful sights and smells of KL, I want to properly acknowledge our time in Oz.

I made no secret of my crush on the sunburnt country- never have I encountered a place so beautiful or so pristine. Whether an endless expanse of dusty red earth or the clear blue waters of the fabulous Indian Ocean- the views never disappoint.

That said, the landscape is over shadowed only by the people.

Australians have an amazing devotion to country and tradition; celebrating their past, while passing along songs and stories that make century old tales relevant. Aussies have a love of sport and outdoors that often makes it hard to park at the park...or the beach...or the trails. Australians like to laugh, eat, drink and knock off around 4:00pm. They play hard and work hard, yet nothing seems to slow them down. It has been our privilege and pleasure to live in Perth. We have made friends and memories that will last forever.

And so we find ourselves again, leaving home.

Thank you for taking us in as your own. Oz has placed a stamp on our souls.

Today we are starting to make a new home in Malaysia- a completely different animal from serene Australia! KL is a thriving metropolis plopped in the middle of a rain forest: sky scrappers and monkeys, McDonalds and durian stands. A trip to the market can be an assault on the senses and carpool is not for the faint of heart! We are living in a compound, which is a lot like TCYC- kids run from house to house, pick-up games of soccer each night and hourly fridge raids by random children! It's great and has really helped the kids transition.

We arrived two weeks before Christmas and once the moving truck pulled up the clock started counting down to the 25th- things moved fast! We had all the boxes unpacked, a tree up and pictures on the walls by the 24th. It was chaos and survival mode- with a little Bing Crosby on the side! We celebrated with a turkey dinner pulled out of thin air and an impromptu Boxing Day BBQ for 18 by the pool. To say we have settled is an understatement. I've even memorized my mobile number!

Along with credit card debit and crappy furniture, IKEA sells live Christmas Trees- for about the same price as Home Depot. Ours was a sparse, dry, 10' Douglas Fir that lasted just long enough to get us to New Years. 

The kids covered it with our home made ornaments and lots of lights. The long low throw pillow on the far right end of the couch is Petunia- seems quarantine was exhausting!

This is the "Turkey" we had for Xmas Dinner.  I'm 75% convinced it was a goose...or an ostrich... We removed several feathers from the carcass and a large neck. It was indeed a Roast Beast and proof with enough wine and a vat of gravy you can solve any problem! 

With the holidays done and dusted, our focus turned to the start of school. The kids have not really registered that they have missed another summer vacation. When we moved to Perth in June- they started school in July. Moving to KL, we finished the AU school year in December and they've just  started up again in January. Result...they were begging to go to school on Monday- maybe three weeks is the new summer?

Yesterday marks a month for us here in Kuala Lumpur. So far my observations and experiences tell me this.

• The city runs on rice, nicotine and high fructose corn syrup. 
• If everyone abandoned KL for three weeks, the jungle would reclaim most of the city- the overpass near our house looks like part of the Raiders of the Lost Ark set. 
• I've been in line for food with three women in Burkas, a woman taking a selfie in a half shirt and cut off jeans and a man picking his nose- personal space and personal beliefs aside...it is truly live and let live here, and it works.

KL is known for its food and everything we have tried so far has been fantastic- with a few exceptions. Coconut rice in banana leaf by the side of the road- life changing! Rock melon icy poles- a revelation! Beef bacon and red bean ice cream...not so much. But with every new experience we are a little bit braver and bit more adventurous. Plus, as my very good friend says- a little diarrhea never hurt anyone!

No Styro...brown paper and banana leaf

IT WAS SO GOOD DAVIS DID NOT EVEN NOTICE THE DUNKIN DONUTS!

So that's news- the weather is hot and muggy...like early summer in Texas, but year round. We get torrential rains in the afternoons and hot steamy mornings. The sound of the frogs can keep you up at night- we are, after all, in a jungle.

I'll be honest. I'm not love struck with KL like I was with Oz. This move may take a while to grow on me. I miss being near the water and the deep blue sky. I miss going to school pick up and having a chat with my friends. I miss low humidity and flat whites. I miss the routine of it all.

Here we are starting new again. While each day holds the promise of an adventure, it also lacks the familiarity that makes things simple. Sometimes going to the grocery is enough of a challenge without the parking, and the new products and the confusion of looking for something as simple as broccoli. So while our transition has been so easy I've questioned my luck; I desperately miss the mundane.

Rice, isle 3...just lots of rice...big colorful bags of rice.

However, today KL scored some points. As I walked towards the kitchen I noticed what I thought was a bat on the sliding glass door. Upon further inspection, it was a moth.

The largest, furriest, most magnificent moth I have ever seen.



WOW! Just WOW.

So cigarette smoke and mopeds and big city aside; I think I am in for some surprises here. It is a whole new world- and different is always good.

Until next time- Selamat tinggal!

Evangeline

Confession

I have a confession to make. I have been having a love affair with another continent for the past year.

Australia

I was seduced by its big blue skies and rugged landscape; the bronzy, dusty terrain- crystal clear waters, infinite stars- a surprise, a challenge at every corner. The newness and allure of something unknown sucked me in and before I knew what was going on I was hooked, blinded, brainwashed. I didn't feel like I was missing anything, I was happy where I was, Texas felt like a dream.

On June 29th, 2014 5:39pm I woke up.

As we turned onto Park Circle I was greeted by the rich greens that only a heavy June rain can bring- lingering water in the ditch, the nostalgic aroma of rotting leaves, fresh cut grass, salt water and honey suckle- HOME. And just like that, Texas embraced me in its heavy humid blanket- it was like I never left.

I've lived away before you know! I went to college in Virginia- but I was never away from the warm brown waters of Galveston bay for more that a few months. I liked Norfolk, alas home was always on the calendar. A different kind of commitment comes with a move to Australia- this go I was an eager volunteer.

Que the background...
Mom got sick two weeks after I graduated from college. I limped along on a very generous set-up from Chicago Yacht Club until it was no longer feasible for either of us.  I gave up a dream job, in a kick ass city, that contained a best friend and moved home to manage her care. In Houston I stumbled on a job via a friend and settled there for a while. At that point I gave up my trajectory and did the responsible thing.

Time passes, I'm good at work, I meet the best guy ever through a lifelong friend, we get married, build a house, live in Kemah, have babies...I'm turning forty, the cement has set, we are here, this is it.

Then......Australia comes up...this amazing choice-chance-dream. It was hard not to be swept away- my second go landed at my feet and thank goodness I embraced it.

Yes, Texas I cheated on you. I traded your TexMex for Beef Pie, your Miller Lite for Creatures Pale Ale. The transition was as tough as it was rewarding. We are all better for it, BUT....

You will never know the joy of being back in the loving arms of the Great State after a year in country. SUV's, cheap sneakers and GOOD hamburgers; it was a Fourth of July Americana binge- followed by long, hot nights spent with the best people on earth. Thank you! For the cold beer, Crab Maison, Whataburger Taquitos, boat rides, magic window, dirt road, bike riding mecca.

Like a junkie getting their fix I over indulged, boarding the plane with swollen hands and puffy eyes- full to the brim of chili powder and fun and bug stuff and laughter. I thought I had done it- managed to complete the perfect visit...

But that bastard Texas did this the night I left.

So you see I'm torn. The comfort and security of an old lover or the excitement and unknown of a fling. Work dictates my path for now. But my heart knows true love and I cannot imagine staying away long- the compass of my life always points to the bay.

It's the dead of winter here, the skies are grey blue, the air is crisp; but still there is a deep pull inside me to go down the pier and drop a line in the water....

You never know what you might catch?

Long time coming

One Entry Two Chapters....

Chapter One

Visitors

Kirk's parents, Judy and Ernie, visited in February and became honorary Perth citizens via their willingness to master public transport, consume lots of lamb and surrender to local prices! We loved having them and we saw more of Perth with them in town than we had collectively on our own.

Judy does her research! So we approached each outing prepped with knowledge and eager to hit the highlights. We drove to Eagle Bay, south of Perth in the Margret River wine country, on the way we detoured to visit the Thrombolites. Yes, we went the extra kilometer or 5 to see rocks, but these are living rocks covered with a layer of cyanobacteria. This bacteria via photosynthesis gradually contributed oxygen to our atmosphere. The "rocks" pictured below are 3.5 million years old.

Sacajawea-esque detour to see the oldest living things on Earth!

Thrombolites, these very lumps created the atmosphere we enjoy today!

Judy and Ernie with the kids on our way to Eagle Bay

Cocktails with magpies and peanuts. Magpies are like pigeons in Oz, a nuisance- maybe it is because they are huge and so well feathered that we encouraged them to join us for drinks- most likely it is just because we are Americans.

Dusk at Eagle Bay, waiting for the stars.
The Milky Way is visible each night, it was magical to look up at more stars than any of us could remember seeing!

Grandpa Ernie and Davo hit the trail

Judy and Ernie also got to play international house hunters, as our lease was not renewed at Irvine for a second year. The Perth real estate market is a volatile beast, but it was a relief to have help looking for houses. As fate would have it- Ernie and Judy had a 5:00am flight home. This early wake-up and good bye had us all up an at 'em in the wee hours of the morning. Being obsessed with finding a house I got online and started looking to see if any new houses were put on the market over night...BINGO! We moved into our new place in April and owe it all to a very early flight and lots of prayers and candles to St. Jude.

It was such a pleasure to share Australia with Judy and Ernie. The kids loved going bush walking with their grandparents and sharing in family dinners and of course Grandpa Ernie's fantastic stories and jokes! It was a highlight to snorkel with Judy and have them walk the kids to school. I know it was a haul to get here but we loved every minute of it!

Chapter 2

A Milestone

I think in every expat experience there was once so little to talk about you have to write it down and then the tide turns and there is so much to write about you don't know where to begin. So you don't. Months pass. Big things happen. Lots of little things happen. But you just can't seem to belly up to the machine and put it all down. It all seems so overwhelming and so...so what? And really, it is.

Currently we are in the trenches- carpool, play dates, after school activities, PTA, grocery store, post office, dry cleaner, repeat, repeat, repeat- the doldrums. Don't get me wrong, its all a little more glamorous knowing I'm doing it on the other side of the earth, but no one needs a recap of my chores. So in essence my silence has saved you from the mundane- you are welcome.

So what's gotten me back online....

It just so happens we've been here A YEAR last week. That's right 365 days embedded in what has to be one of the most beautiful, easy going, outdoorsy, fun loving places I have ever been. Thinking back on our time here so far we have seen and done a lot, but probably not enough. The curse of finding your footing in a new place is taking it for granted. However, life here has been punctuated with adventure and discovery- in the process finding out a lot more about ourselves.

For starters, I don't think my children have ever been so happy. Vee has assimilated seamlessly into life at the new school. She is involved in many of the after school activities sewing, karate, photography- sewing being her favorite. And if you are rolling your eyes at how antiquated a sewing class sounds- stuff it, I haven't sewn a button on anything in 6 weeks and there is lots of math in stitchery! She has found a great group of friends we affectionately call the "Nerd Herd", they are always discussing books and working on projects together- a truly unique bunch. Moving her from the International School was a huge leap of faith, but as expat posts go this is one of the only places we will ever be able to attend a local school- it was the best decision we have made.

The Herd in action!

Davis continues to flourish in the Aussie "tough-stuff" male culture; his current activity being Rugby. The sporting teams for kids here are run through a club system. You pay to join the club and you have access to the facilities and a place on the team. The only reason this makes any sense is that adults here play sports just like kids. So at our club- The Associates of Swanbourne- kids, teenagers, dads and granddads all play rugby for the club against other clubs.  Practice is accompanied by dinner and a cash bar, plus we can bring Petunia. We call it TCYC Terra Firma, mama aint never looked forward to practice like this!

No pads, no helmet, no worries!

Perth Zoo, no fence- just rope.

So with one year under our belts we are looking forward to new experiences and seeing much more of this extraordinary place we currently call home. Honestly, the time has flown by. In the beginning I was so worried and sad to leave all our friends and the safety of a life I had always known- hell bent on flying home for Christmas and summer, determined to source taco shells and hot dogs. I hated leaving my house and my garden and my beloved Galveston Bay. But today, none of that really matters- I know that we could be happy anywhere. Because it is not what you take with you, but who you bring that makes the trip worth while. I am so proud of our family and giddy with what our future might hold!

The Best Yet

Australia continues to surprise and delight us, the beauty and scale is breath taking. Not to mention just how untouched and remote the landscape is- you feel as if you the first one exploring a trail or swimming off a beach- it is enchanting and addictive.  I have never experienced anything like it.

We returned from Kangaroo Island, buzzed from the copious amounts of fresh air and outdoor adventures. I know I am speaking too soon, but we may have seen the best of Australia.  This feeling a good thing, because in lieu of heading back to Tejas for a good ole family Christmas we chose to stay in the sunburnt country and explore. Kangaroo Island was our trade off for loved ones and Ninfa's- happily, it did not disappoint.

KI is located just off the coast of Adelaide in Southern Australia. It is the third largest island in AU and was named for the bountiful feast of kangaroo explorers enjoyed upon their arrival. Like a lot of Oz, Kangaroo Island has very poor sandy soil which made life hard for settlers to farm and stabilize homesteads. Through the 1900's the islands primary economic driver was whaling and hunting of fur seals and sea lions for their pelts and blubber. One of the three sea lion colonies left in Australia is on KI; despite the outlawing of hunting in the 90's the number of sea lions remain low. Today the sea lions are carefully monitored and protected by the government.

In the 1920's a program was initiated to "preserve" Australia's distinct wildlife by relocating animals to Kangaroo Island, kind of like a Noah's Ark. Koalas, echidnas, platypus, wombats, emu and the like were placed in a large nature preserve, Flinder's Chase, named after the island's discoverer Matthew Flinder.  To date, Kangaroo Island boasts loads of wildlife- Koala and Kangaroos in the tens of thousands and other animals in the thousands.

My mission was to see a platypus while we were there- alas, they are very illusive. One of the guides at the park has lived on the island her whole life and saw one once in 2008 after she had camped at a lagoon edge during a drought. This lady was the female version of Crocodile Dundee, rode hard and hung-up wet. I have resigned to view the shy creature only in books...my outdoorsy is not that outdoorsy.

As a consolation prize we did spot and echidna. Echidna's like the platypus, are also part of the monotreme family- egg laying mammals. Their babies hatch and then spend several months in the mothers pouch. They too are shy, so this is my photo of the echidna running off into the bush, its the brown blur- I would have stopped to focus but I was standing on a meat ant mound in flip flops- No bueno!

Kangaroo Island is also home to the only pure colony of Ligurian Bee's left in existence. The bees were shipped in from Italy in the 1900's and thrived on the island. The honey is delicious and KI actively exports the honey and queen bees all over the world.

This is a rouge hive of bees we found in a cave on the beach! 

"Awww man, Koalas again!" -Davis Atkinson, spoiled, age 7

Because Kangaroo Island was populated in the 1930's with Koalas it is one of the only places on the West Coast of Australia where they roam free in the trees. We saw a lot of them.

Some of these photos were taken during an evening tour- koalas are nocturnal, sleeping about 20 hours a day. At night they feed on eucalyptus and can eat 2 kilos in a sitting. Eucalyptus is the only food they eat, so a large population can be devastating to the landscape. We learned that koalas have tiny brains and are often described as "stoned"- eucalyptus contains large amounts of arsenic. While their bodies can handle the poison to a degree, they are not regarded as the smartest animals- what they lack in wits they surely make up for in adorableness!

Snake Lagoon

We did some wonderful hikes, this was the Snake Lagoon trail in Flinder's Chase Park. Despite the name it is not snakey- you just follow a river snaking its way to the ocean. We were on KI during some of the hottest weather of the year. The humidity is so low it doesn't feel like July in Texas, but it was definitely hot. The kids were champs and loved ending up on the beach!

We saw a total of 5 people on the hike, two of which were researching the lizards.

Aussie's refer to lizards as 'dragons'; this guy was really awesome but not the dragon the kids were hoping to run into ;)

The beach at last!

Remarkable Rocks

The tourist brochure touts granite outcroppings all over the island, one grouping in particular is referred to as the Remarkable Rocks. Before seeing them I thought this was a bit of a stretch, how can rocks be remarkable? Boy, was I wrong. You can see them on the horizon in the first picture, and as one guy in our group said- they look like they have been placed here by aliens. Even the starkly contrasting orange lichen is too perfect. The rocks are perched on the edge of a cliff and were carved out thousands of years ago by the ocean. It is one of the most remarkable things I have ever seen and I hated to leave. The colors change with the sun, I could have stayed all day and watched.

Cliff Top Walk

On the hottest day we were there, 44 C, we got up early and did the Cliff Top Walk. It was a spectacular hike along the top of the limestone cliffs that make-up the island. We were on the look-out for Guanas, pronounced go-annas, but it was so hot not much was around. The views were amazing and the color of the ocean hard to beat.

Sea Lion Colony

We visited the sea lion colony on KI, they rival the koalas in cuteness and lethargy, since most of them just slept. The one exception was a pup that went up and down the beach terrorizing the colony, he actually approached another tour group! It was amazing- and I don't think I've ever been so jealous or wished I had a fish in my pocket to lure him our way. 

Los Swankyenda Especial

Our home base for this trip was the fabulous Southern Ocean Lodge. While booking I kept giving the concierge opportunities to exclude us in some way; I have had nightmares about turning the "plunge pool" into a scene from Caddy Shack...my children are, what can I say, a little rough around the edges. All told everyone was on their best behavior and it turns out my kids can hang with the best of them during a four course meal. Kirk and I worked our way through a fabulous South Australian wine list and enjoyed food like we have never had. Mother nature treated us to a full moon and we even got a decent family photo. It was a vacation we will never forget. Australia gave us her heart and soul for Christmas. 

As strange as it sounds, I want to acknowledge all our friends and family for giving us permission to stay and enjoy our time here. There is a strong pull to go home- out of longing, or habit, or Whatabuger withdrawal- but also a lurking sense of obligation. When we announced in October that we would stay on in Oz for the holidays everyone gave us their blessing. No one grouched or guilted us- they encouraged our travels.

Thank you.  We really are having an adventure of a lifetime.